
I have returned from Agra this morning, and the Taj Mahal refuses to fade away from the head. Before I had seen it most friends had suggested that I would find it over hyped. I would probably have done so had their opinions not mellowed my expectations!
The day began with reaching Agra late by about two hours. After making a quick trip to the Buland Darwaza in Fatehpur Sikri, we finally arrived.
I caught the first glimpse of the large dome and the spire atop it immediately after I crossed the security checkpoint. But as I entered the large red gate (don't know if that has a special name), the white wonder at a distance just didn't let me take my eyes off. Step by step, I advanced through the gate and realised the overwhelming nature of the masterpiece. The head juggled through my limited vocabulary and came up with the right adjective- "The Taj is just so imposing," I said to myself!
Some quick clicks of the camera and we inched further with the many many tourists already devouring the beauty and grandeur. The gardens were splendid, the walk relieving, yet every step towards the Taj was intimidating me. I paused, and interrogated. I realised my fear was that of losing my first impressions as I got closer: maybe I will loathe the yellow tinge that reportedly has grabbed the marble, or maybe my proximity to the structure will make it impossible to appreciate the breathtakingly precise (compared to the scale and the time of its built) symmetry that the Taj owns.
As I finally set my foot on the marble stairs, and the sole touched the perfectly smooth surface, I told myself there's more to appreciate. We didn't just barge in at the first opportunity, but instead, took a round of the Taj- went to its backside and enjoyed the view across the river, not to mention the cool breeze that welcomed us smiling. And then, we entered the monument- went in a circle- tried to peek in though the marble cut mesh work, with little success. And even before we realised it, we were out of it. Clearly then, the insides were disappointing; especially the fact that everything had been barricaded- no rooms to visit, no tombstones to rave about!
It was time to take another walk around the Taj as if we were party to some unsigned merry-go-round pact! It was then that my mom whispered, "Aah, and there are the modern day Shah and Noor!" Even before I turned my head, I knew I disapproved of her comment- my repartee could easily have been "how does it matter to you?" but I chose to keep quiet just this while and turned around to look. This young couple- possibly "just married" or "in love" (from what I could read about their socio-economic background, the former would be my better guess) - were writing up their memories. The guy was reclined with his head on her lap and she was running her fingers through his hair- alongside, they were also muttering sweet nothings to each other convinced that an invisible acoustic contraption had them well sealed off from the heap of people huddled not far away from them. I didn't want to appear overtly interested and having registered the above, I turned away in a fraction of a second. We went around the Taj and then chose to rest in the gardens.
My mom thanked the heavens. After all, it could have been scorchingly sunny or slipperingly rainy- yet it was just the right overcast not willing to yield a drop. That meant disaster for the photographer, but joy for those like me already in love with the place. Conversations with mom swerved from one irrelevant topic to another- until she hit the note that I suspect she had been planning to for a while.
"Manish, when do you plan to move on? Isn't it time you find stability in life?" she said.
"I have moved on and I am stable. What makes you think it is the contrary?" I retorted.
"No, I meant, when do you plan to settle down? Everyone around you has moved on. Why do you have to live in the past?"
"Listen Ma, I will not force myself into a relationship just because I fear growing old, or just because you want it. In my last relationship, we had discovered each other. There was no goal that we were working towards, yet we just found each other and it became special by the day- until it started waning away."
"But they've moved on; don't you think you should as well."
"May be I should. But I don't believe in moving on for the heck of it. I may not have anything to do with them, nor do I want to. They're clearly not the person I had been with. The change had been phenomenal either in their personality or mine, or both ours! I may not have them around anymore, but nobody can take their memories away. Those are special to me and securely locked up. Every now and then I recreate them for myself and make them live longer."
"I respect that. But, as I say, you would have to move on. I come from a generation that found their love after marriage."
"I don't have anything against you for that. But, you cannot impose the rules of your generation on mine. We are a generation that believes in expressing our feelings- not curtailing them for the fear of social mores. In fact, to debate between the behaviour of your generation and mine leads only to conflict- and I have already suffered because of that. It was the mores of your generation that kept me tied down for so long while they were expressing their love uninhibited- it took me too long to get out of it. And by the time I did it and that too with little confidence, they had already moved on."
"Manish, at your age it is easier to think that life can be so fulfilling with friends. As you grow older, you will realise the need for a closer companion."
"I cannot refute that point of yours; you have experience to back it. Yet, all I can say is, until such time arrives when I would be willing to settle for the heck of it, I would want discover people naturally! I would want to be around friends, and discover love by accident. I may be entirely wrong in forcing myself to fit the prototype my last relationship has created. Yet, I believe at this time that there's no other way."
"Let me ask you then, do you have any belief that just because you last felt for a guy, you may only be compatible with another guy."
"Ma, to be honest, I do not think so. If I look at myself all through the years, I think that may not be true. But I must confess that social conditioning can be a subconscious deterrent to even a die-hard revolutionary. Thankfully, it didn't deter me last time, and also thankfully my belief in the idea of flexible sexualities is still firm. I think I have to honest with myself, which means that if I do feel for someone, boy or girl, I would be willing to respond. I do not want to barricade my feelings."
"It is quite disturbing for me. But, do ask yourself. What can you call a relationship of that kind? All that can be said is that these two guys are living together. What else?"
"You are right. In our country, that is all that could be said. Yet, it doesn't bother me. Anyway, I have little faith in the institution of marriage. I would rather stay with my live-in partner, even if a girl, all my life than ornament the relationship with the socio-legal tags."
"You clearly have jumped a generation in your thought. Do you realise that I may have expectations from you?"
"Yes Ma, I do. But I would rate any expectations that you have of my personal life as unreasonable! My personal life is mine. Period."
"I can't say much then, but I am glad you seem to know what you are talking unlike about two years ago."
"Sure Ma, two years is a long time."
I would be lying outright if I say that the above conversation took place as is recorded. That is NOT the case. It was not that crisp Reader's Digest style. It was interrupted by random observations, skew comments, a cold drink, some snacks, some lazy rambling and also a bit of heat in the argument. Yet, I think this is a reasonable summary. While we were sitting there working our minds and hearts, there were also other interesting observations to make.
We saw a couple who went up to a white woman and requested her, in their impaired English, to please hold their child and have a photograph taken with him. The lady obliged. And I imploded with laughter. My mom said, "As if her touch will turn the boy white!!" My mom is quite good at these politically-incorrect comments, but all I can do to help her is to interrupt her. Yet, I thought to myself what would be on the couple's mind. Was it really some Midas touch they were hoping for. My political correctness came to the fore again, this time reprimanding me for the choice of my thoughts. "Why a Midas touch? Do you think a white skin is more valuable than a coloured one, just like the gold is than iron?" "No. But, by the way, what makes you think gold is more valuable than iron, aren't they both metals in their own right?" I complained.
Only then I saw this little girl who had probably by a freak accident of a fortuitous reception from a leaking cable TV network caught glimpses of some set-in-the-yore English movie. She would go up to one foreigner after another and forward her hand for a shake. When they would respond, she would immediately take the opportunity to kiss them on the hand and then run away in delight. That brought a smile to my face and also my mom's. So much for our colonial hangover, I thought!
And then I spotted this group of children (boys, to be more precise) playing in the parks. They were mostly all in the 8-14 age group. And then I spotted another- this was another group of guys dressed in white kurta-pyjamahs with the round cap that is used during a namaaz. They were unmistakably Muslim children. But why were they playing separately? Were the two groups deliberately avoiding each other? Or was one of them just an alien group of children? Was this a difference of religion, or just the socioeconomics? Or were there Muslim children embedded in the other group as well, whose parents had not chosen to display their religious identities in their clothing. I tried comparing the two groups, they were behaving similarly- running after each other, somersaulting in the grass, whispering in each others' ears, playing with the ball, and breaking into spontaneous running competitions and then pulling each others' clothes to get ahead. I did it for a while and then thought to myself- who says these children are different? If only we let them be equals.
At the monument of love, I thus basked in the sunshine of my own beliefs, convictions, and love. And as the sun started to set at the horizon, we gathered our belongings and made a move.